Style Setter
The Lim Crowd
Women from D.C. to Tokyo can’t get enough of designer Phillip Lim’s feminine, fuss-free clothes
Above, Top (from left): Cream collage dress ($2,200; call 212-334-1600 for ordering info); croc motif crewneck ($325) and Ra Ra skirt ($725, both Muleh, 1831 14th St. NW; 202-667-3440); navy collage dress ($2,000; call 212-334-1600); sequin tank dress ($895, Muleh)
How would you describe your line?
define my signature style as “classic with a sense of madness.” Usually with my designs, what you don’t see is what you get. The design details are inherent: things like unusual fabrics, structure, handwork and fit that you might not even notice in the item right away, but will discover as you wear it.
Yet your spring collection includes some very complex dresses (above, front). Was that intentional?
I’m always pushing myself to try something new. On a visit to an art gallery in New York, I became inspired by the abstract Cubism of Picasso’s late work, which inspired these “collage” dresses. I like the idea of reworking lines, proportions and color in a new way. The technique was brought to the outside, quite literally. But they’re still dresses that you would wear, not something that would be perceived as being too precious.
Take us through a typical day in your life.
I wake up in my SoHo apartment and usually walk to my office in the Garment District. I make the rounds with my assistants, the atelier, haute topic checking e-mails. From here on, it’s as it comes. Every day is different and often intense — nothing like what they teach you at school! My quiet, creative time comes late in the day, after everyone else has gone home. I might go to an industry event at night, but I’m actually an introvert. If left to my own devices, I’d rather be alone.
What’s the best part of your routine?
The things I love the most are having coffee and spending time with my French bulldog, Oliver, in the morning. A little caffeine and a little love. My other favorite hobby is a little embarrassing; I love reality TV. “Real Housewives,” “Jersey Shore.” I watch it all.
Where do you find inspiration?
I never know when it might come. I’m actually working on some new shapes now that I stole from a woman I passed one day on the street. I noticed how she used a rectangular piece of jersey to cover her shoulders and stay warm. It struck me as so simple and pragmatic, yet the result was so modern.
You’ve just added lingerie to your brand and are introducing shoes this fall. What’s your favorite thing to design?
Right now, it’s the shoes. They require the same precision and technique as dressmaking, but instead of draping, I sculpt. We’ll offer a complete shoe wardrobe, because I think that if you can’t do it right, then you shouldn’t do it. It’s just not fair to the customer. I’m a customer myself, and I’m always putting myself in that mindset.
