December 16, 2010
Jenn Shops the Left Bank
Is there a better shopping city anywhere than Paris? With chocolatiers, hat boutiques, vintage troves and the best flea markets dotting what seems to be every rue corner, even the bazaars of Istanbul or the edgy stores of Manhattan look a tad stale compared with this. I have to confess: I did my part to help the French economy.
With Philippa pal Holly Bass, I hit the flea market on a snowy Saturday. Though there are several well-known fleas in the City of Light, we went to the grand-pere of them all: the Marché aux Puces de St.-Ouen (aka Clignacourt) where Holly scored 1920s buttons and trims to make into jewelry and I picked up 1930s fashion illustrations to frame for my office. Wandering the stalls — some indoors, some out — was like riding a zip line through the past three hundred years of French style and interior design, with everything from flapper dresses to Art Deco desks for sale.
OpenSkies generously let me stay on for a few extra days of museum-hopping (and winter clothes shopping). I relocated myself to the Left Bank, former haunt of Ernest Hemmingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald and current site of countless snug cafes, cool shops and good restaurants. It plays SoHo or Brooklyn to the Right Bank’s Fifth Avenue, so the shops tend to be more intimate and personal — and un peau more affordable as well. 
On the left back, I happened on the tiny, slightly out-of-the-way Rue Quatre Vents (Street of the Four Winds) hunting for a good chocolate eclair at Gerard Mulot, but also came away with a cozy, Anna Karenina-goes-to-Paris hooded jacket from Ekjo, a beribboned rose-colored T-shirt from Belgian boho outlet Mais il est ou le soileil? (don’t ask me to translate that one…) and some whimsical rickrack-print mugs at Sabre. Another favorite stretch: La Rue Cherche Midi, where rocker-chic Heimstone, shoe giant Robert Clegerie and other hip brands make their stylish nests. Did I wish I’d brought about a thousand more euros…oui! -Jennifer Barger



































